Seeking Fragrance for Summer

By Ray Novitske, Fairfax Master Gardener
When starting out on this story, my first attempt was to identify the fragrant flowers you can grow at home. When consulting possible candidates, I found consensus in the same favorites showing up. These are the plants you already know and love. Rose, lilac, hyacinth, peony and lavender were at the top of everyone’s list. Jasmine and gardenia were also on many lists, but I would consider them as houseplants that spend the summers outdoors in our climate.

Lilacs and peonies bloom for a quick time and then they are gone until next year. You will not likely get any peony blooms on plants this year if purchased now unless you pay a fortune for a mature plant. Lilacs are shrubs that may take a few years to establish themselves before you can enjoy their sweet fragrance. Hyacinths are spring bulbs already finished for the year. Fragrant roses bloom now, and then trail off for the remaining summer, sporadically pushing out something if they are in the everblooming mood. Of course, the knockout roses will keep going somewhat with little fragrance. My story then took on a new purpose: to help you identify some fragrant plants that you can plant in your garden now that will bloom this summer and be used as cut flowers.

Tuberose
First on the list is Polianthes tuberosa or tuberose. This is an old plant that has been around for centuries and cultivated by pre-Columbian civilizations and the Aztecs in Central and South America. The Spanish conquerors took it with them when returning to Spain in the 16th century. It has been in cultivation so long that it is no longer found in the wild and is considered a ‘cultigen.’

Tuberose is an old fashioned Victorian and early 20th century favorite that is no longer in fashion. It is a plant grown from rhizomes and is a member of the agave family. Its grass-like leaves will give way to flower stalks in mid to late summer and will shoot up and produce clusters of white, waxy, funnel-shaped flowers. The tubular shaped flowers are intensely fragrant and have been used as an ingredient in perfumes.

The plant loves hot areas and appreciates hot afternoon sun. It grows well in well-drained garden soil and is considered a perennial in Zones 9 and 10. In our Zone 7 climate, it is best to dig up the tubers and store them over winter like gladiolus and dahlias.

Heliotrope
Heliotropium arborescens is also called the cherry pie flower because of its sweet scent. The good news for Fairfax County is that this plant flourishes in hot, dry summers, is drought and heat tolerant and are hated by deer. The tiny 1/4 inch flowers bloom in dense clusters of pink, white and lavender in addition to the deep purple your grandmother might have grown. Again, this is a plant that has been around for a time and just lost favor.

This is considered a tender perennial here but grows as a small shrub in other areas. It can overwinter in our area, but it is best to bring it inside if growing in a container or take cuttings for the following year. Yes, it does well in containers. Heliotrope needs at least six hours of sunlight to do well, preferring morning sunlight, and will reward you with sweet fragrant blossoms in mid to late summer. One note of caution: all parts of the plant are considered poisonous to humans and animals, although people will generally not die from its ingestion.

It readily blooms in the height of summer and can be cut and brought indoors to enjoy its sweet vanilla perfume.

Freesia
The spicy fragrance of freesia can be enjoyed year round since it is excellent for forcing indoors during winter. When planted indoors in November, you can expect blooms in cold wintery January and February.

The South African native prefers rich soil and regular watering so do not let freesia dry out. They are considered a spring blooming perennial in warmer Zones 9 and 10, but here in Zone 7 they must be dug up in the fall and stored during winter indoors. They come in almost all color combinations. Most forms you will find for sale are hybrids giving you bigger and more numerous blooms than the native.

So, if you are considering something to plant and enjoy this summer, don’t overlook these fragrant, old fashioned beauties that can excite your olfactory senses, too.

References
• Heliotropium arborescens, North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
• Heliotropium arborescens, Make Mine Vanilla!, Dawn Pettinelli, University of Connecticut Home &
   Garden Education Center
• Plant of the Week: Tuberose, Gerald Klingaman, University of Arkansas, Division of Agriculture,
   Research and Extension
• Tuberoses: Fragrant Garden Antiques, William C. Welch, Texas A&M Extension
• Freesia—Freesia x hybrida Family Iridaceae, University of California, Statewide IPM Program
• Freesia x hybrida, Leonard Perry, University of Vermont

How to Predict Cherry Blossom’s Full Bloom

By Ann M. Mason, Fairfax Master Gardener
It’s March and our Metro DC weather is turning warmer. In our Washington, DC Metro Area, the sentinel event of late March and April is the blooming of our cherry blossoms. For a short 5- to 14-day period we marvel at the beauty of spring. In Japan, cherry trees are revered. For centuries every spring, the Japanese have celebrated festivals, called ‘hanami,’ flower viewing, a time to admire and celebrate the blossoms. Cherry blossoms symbolize the cycle of life, death and rebirth.

Our first cherry blossom festival was held in 1927. In 1912, the Mayor of Tokyo, Japan gifted over 3,000 cherry trees, including 12 varieties, to the United States. After some discussion and the intervention of Mrs. Taft, the first lady, these cherry trees were planted around the Tidal Basin. To return the good will gesture, the U.S. gifted flowering dogwood trees to Japan.

Each year we hear or read newscasters from various organizations make predictions for the peak blooming time of the Washington Tidal Basin’s Yoshino Japanese flowering cherry trees (Prunus x yedoensis), a member of the rose (Rosaceae) family.

How do they make these predictions?
Weather temperatures in December through March play a role in when green buds will emerge. Horticultural experts report that the Yoshino cherry and other cultivars like the ‘Kwanzan,’ ‘Ichiyo,‘Akebona,’ ‘Perpendens’ and ‘Shidare’ display similar stages from bud to full bloom. But not all these cultivars start the green bud formation at the same time as the ‘Yoshino.’

Let’s examine the plant’s response to weather. What signals from the tree should we look for? Horticulturists report that there are five or six stages for the acute gardening observer.

Stage 1: Green bud formation. This stage can last a long time. So, what we know when we see green buds is that the blooming process has started.

Stage 2: Emergence of florets. Once one sees the flash of pink emerging from the bud, the predicted time for full bloom is within 20 days. Weather temperatures will influence how much earlier the blossom will fully emerge. Warmer temperatures can shift blooming forward to as short as 12 days. Keep watching for other signals.

Stage 3: Extension of florets. The rounded bud shape extends into the typical tubular-shaped floret in a composite flower head.

Stage 4: Peduncle elongation. Peduncle, the stalk bearing the flower, lengthens.

Stage 5: First appearance of fluffy white petals. Petals will start to unfurl and emerge. Now one can expect the flowers to fully emerge within 4 to 6 days.

Stage 6: Full bloom. Enjoy the show of lovely pink to white blossoms on the tree’s graceful branches. Warm temperatures (above 60 degrees F) will shorten full bloom appearance to 4 to 5 days; temperatures cooler than 60 degrees F will extend the bloom to last up to 10 days.

Sadly, the National Park Service urges people to observe trees locally. With the continued Covid-19 safety restrictions the National Park Service does not want visitors to the National Mall and Tidal Basin in 2021.

Instead, enjoy monitoring your favorite cherry tree in your yard or neighborhood. This is a great time to track the stages of blooming in your garden journal and encourage your favorite young gardeners to start their 2021 gardening journal.

Resources
• Six stages of cherry blossom development from buds to flowers, Jessica Tremblay,
   Vancouver Cherry Blossom Festival
• Cherry blossom boom, Live Science

Popular Poppies

By Ray Novitske, Fairfax Master Gardener

Because I grow annual poppies in my front garden every year that impress my neighbors, I wanted to write about them. But I also killed a perennial Oriental Poppy plant that I purchased many years ago. Older and a little wiser, I now know that it did not receive the proper growing conditions, and I did not understand its life cycle.

Who knew that there were so many different types? There is a native poppy that grows on every populated continent. Let’s examine some of the more popular ones that you might find enticing, and one type that gardeners want to grow, but most cannot.

Oriental Poppy
Papaver orientale is the popular poppy that most people visualize when they hear the word poppy. This bright orange or red perennial has tissue paper petals with large blooms and usually a black ringed center. Native to Asia, Turkey and the Caucuses where winters are cold and summers dry, these were the first poppies to be brought to Europe and hybridized to produce some pink and white colors.

The leaves are hairy and thistle-like and the 3-foot tall (90 cm) stems often need staking. They prefer cool, well-drained soil, and do not do well in our hot humid summers. After blooming in late spring, they die back for the summer with foliage reappearing in the fall and often persisting throughout the winter as it readies for blooming the following spring.

Like all poppies, the Oriental Poppy does not like to be transplanted, and may take a few seasons to bloom if planted from seed. If sown in the garden, note that poppies are one of the plants that need light to break dormancy and germinate.

Shirley Poppy
Although naturalized throughout the U.S, Papaver rhoeas is native to Europe and often called the Flanders Poppy because of its association with World War I and the city of Flanders. After heavy casualties in a battle at Flanders, these poppies quickly appeared on the freshly dug graves there, with some people accepting this as a divine sign. Actually, poppy seeds can remain in the soil for years before the right light conditions occur to germinate. Disturbing the soil most likely caused the long dormant poppy seeds to germinate. Today, this red poppy is worn on Remembrance Day (similar to our Veteran’s Day) in Europe, and especially England.

The Shirley Poppy is an annual that readily reseeds itself and comes in blooms of pink, white and red. The 3-inch (7 cm) flower is held well above the 2-foot high (60 cm) stem and small foliage, allowing it to be easily visible and appreciated. Grow this in well-drained soil and in full or part sun.

Opium Poppy
Sometimes called the breadseed poppy because of its use on baked goods, Papaver somniferum is used to produce opium and heroin. It is grown as an ornamental in the U.S. The DEA has stated that “it is illegal to grow [these poppies] for the purpose of producing opiates.” Although it is illegal to grow because of its classification as a schedule II narcotic, you can purchase seeds from many seed companies, and the DEA will not come knocking on your door (unless you are growing a large area, like an acre.)

These poppies are native to Central Asia and the Mediterranean. Flowers come in many shades of pink, white and lavender, with blueish green smooth leaves, and can have the characteristic tissue-paper petals or resemble peonies and carnations. ‘Lauren’s Grape’ is a specific, single-flowered, popular lavender variety. An annual, it easily reseeds itself each year. It thrives in rich soil, sunny locations and cool temperatures, and does poorly in hot humid weather. In our area, seeds are often sown in fall for a later spring bloom.

Woodland Poppy
Perennial Stylophorum diphyllum, or sometimes called the Celandine Poppy, is native to the shady woodlands of Virginia and the eastern U.S. It is considered endangered in the wild in some areas. It prefers wet, humusy soils found among fallen leaves and part to full shade. It will go dormant in early summer if the soil dries out.

The yellow flower blooms in early spring on 12- to 18-inch high (30 to 50 cm) plants. The orange sap can easily stain and was used by Native Americans as a dye.

California Poppy
Eschscholzia californica is a cool season annual found wild in the western U.S. and in cultivated gardens. Its low-growing, trailing habit produces red, orange, yellow and white flowers, although it is mostly found as orange. Flowers above the lacy foliage close up on cloudy rainy days and at night. It is at home in sunny spots with dry, poor soils and is considered a drought-tolerant cool season annual.

It can easily grow in our area. Sow seeds directly in the ground in the fall or start indoors about three weeks before the last frost. This will continue blooming throughout the spring if deadheaded to prevent seed production.

Himalayan Poppy
Meconopsis is a genus within the Papaveraceae or poppy family. These rare blue poppies are native to the high elevations of the Himalayan Mountains and are almost extinct in their natural habitat. Gardeners seek out these because of the color, but they are very difficult to grow. They originate from the high elevations of the Himalayans and require low temperatures, snow cover in winter to protect from freezing temperatures, acid soils, semi-woodland areas and cool damp summers. They will die if temperatures reach over 80 degrees, so forget about growing them here.

The cultivar ‘Lingholm’ is offered in some seed catalogs. But, be warned that this poppy is a challenge, even for the best gardeners.

If trying poppies in your garden, try the annual poppies first. Be sure to sow them in the fall, and enjoy them in the spring.

Resources
• Plant of the Week: Poppy, Oriental, University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension System
• Papaver orientale, North Carolina State University Extension
• Papaver somniferum, Purdue University Center for New Crops and Plants Products
• Massive Poppy Bust: Why Home-Grown Opium is Rare, Live Science
• Indictment: Kansas man planted poppies …, U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration, Drug Enforcement
   Adminstration
• Corn Poppy/Shirley Poppy, Texas A&M University
• Plant of the Week: Polly (Field Poppy, Flanders Poppy, Corn Poppy), University of Arkansas
   Cooperative Extension Service
• Celandine Poppy, Stylophorum diphyllum, University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension
• Stylophorum diphyllum, Missouri Botanical Garden
• Eschscholzia californica, North Carolina State University Extension
• Papaver nudicaule, Arizona State University
• Blue-poppy, Longwood Gardens
• The Himalayan Blue Poppy, Meconopsis ‘Lingholm,’ University of Illinois

A Trio of Tantalizing Spring Bulbs

By Gretchen Spencer, Fairfax Master Gardener

This time of year, most gardeners are turning their attention to starting seeds indoors, planning their vegetable gardens or researching new plants for the perennial border. However, here are three rarely planted, somewhat unusual, though tantalizing bulbs for you to think about planting next fall. You may see them on your walks around the neighborhood and wonder what they are. They are found in the genera Eremurus, Fritillaria, and Camassia. All three are deer and rodent resistant and have showy, colorful flowers that stand out in the garden. Fritillaria and Camassia are grown from true bulbs, and Eremurus is grown from a tuberous rootstock. And while each genus offers several species and varieties for the garden, I will highlight a few of the plants in each genus.

Eremurus
Perhaps the most striking of the three genera are the plants found in Eremurus. Native to dry grasslands of western and central Asia, they are known commonly as desert candles, foxtail lilies or king’s spear. Their common names refer to their flowers which grow in tall, upright racemes or spires composed of tightly packed, star-shaped flowers that open from the bottom up. Sometimes these are referred to as “bottle-brush” flowers. The bare flower stems grow from a rosette of long, grass-like leaves and generally reach 3 to 6 feet tall. The flowers bloom in May and June and come in an array of white, yellow, orange and pink. Bold and impressive, they are best planted in the back of the garden, or in front of shrubs or evergreens. Because of their height, they may require support if not planted in a wind-protected area such as against a fence or hedge.

Eremurus are best planted in the fall. Their delicate, tuberous root stocks, shaped like starfish with long tentacle-like roots, should be planted in rich, well-drained soil in bright sunlight. The tubers should be planted just 2 to 3 inches deep on a cone of soil with the roots spreading out and down 2 to 3 inches. Care must be taken not to disturb the roots nor to allow neighboring plants to encroach on the roots or leaves. The crowns of the plants may be divided every few years. The plants should also be well mulched in the winter with compost or leaves to protect them from winter thaws and refreezes. The early growing leaves may be susceptible to frost damage as well as snail or slug damage.

Three species of Eremurus to consider planting are Eremurus himalaicus, Eremurus robustus and Eremurus stenophyllus. Perhaps the hardiest species, E. himalaicus has dense white flowers, grows to 4 feet and has gray-green leaves that grow up to 2 feet long. E. robustus has pink flowers, enormous flower spikes that grow 8 to 10 feet and leaves that reach 4 feet. E. stenophyllus is a dwarf species that has yellow flowers, grows 2 to 3 feet and has 1-foot leaves.

Fritillaria
The genus Fritillaria contains about 100 species of unique bulbous plants that have pendant, bell-like flowers in a variety of colors, some of which are very unusual such as plum or brown. They are found throughout the world. The large bulbs have a strong, musky scent that keeps rodents out of the garden. While some species are “a bit more finicky” to grow than other bulbs, their uniqueness in the garden make them worth the challenge. The name Fritillaria comes from the Latin fritillus which means dice box and refers to the geometric patterns of spots found on some flowers that are like the dots on dice. Fritillaries also share their name with several spotted butterflies.

The species in this genus are more varied than those found in Eremurus. Here are three species that offer an interesting and intriguing alternative to or companion for more traditional spring bulbs. They may also add a conversational accent to the garden. All should be planted in full to partial sun, depending on the species, in organically rich, well-draining soil. Adding some sand or small gravel to the planting hole with help improve drainage. Fritillarias may also be bothered by red lily beetles, as they are members of the lily family. Hand picking them off is the best control. Some species may also be prone to leaf spot or rust.

Fritillaria imperialis, or crown imperial, native from southwestern Asia to the Himalayas, is an impressive 3- to 4-foot plant whose cluster of orange, yellow or red drooping bell-like flowers with spikey green leaves on top does resemble an exotic crown. The flowers rise above wavy leaves that surround the lower half of the stem. This species does best planted in full sun. The large bulb should be planted sideways to prevent water from collecting in the stem hole on the top of the bulb as the bulbs are prone to rotting. I planted ten crown imperial bulbs the previous fall, and in the spring only one bloomed beautifully, and a few others came up but did not bloom. The bulbs may have been affected by bulb rot. Nevertheless, the one that did bloom was spectacular. Bulbs usually do not bloom a second year. These bulbs may do well planted in a container with a soil mix that drains well.

Fritillaria persica, or Persian lily, native to western Asia, bears an enchanting raceme of up to 30 bell-shaped, plum-purple flowers on strong stems that grow from 1 to 3 feet tall, surrounded with grey-green leaves. It may be planted in full sunlight but benefits from light shade during hot afternoons. There are several cultivars of Fritillaria persica. ‘Green Dreams’ grows to 3 feet and has pale plum, green-tinted flowers; ‘Ivory Bells’ grows up to 3 feet and has green-ivory flowers that mature to white; and ‘Purple Dynamite’ grows to 30 inches and has shiny, mahogany flowers that darken to purple-black.

Fritillaria meleagris, commonly called checkered fritillary, Guinea hen flower or snake’s head fritillary, grows widely in Europe from southern England to Russia. Meleagris means “spotted like a guinea fowl” and refers to the checkered pattern on its burgundy and white petals. Fritillaria meleagris is a dainty plant that grows between 6 and 12 inches tall. It has grassy gray-green leaves. The bell-shaped flowers gracefully arch downward and their checkered pattern may be in shades of maroon, dark purple, reddish purple or a muddy pink. This species grows in full sun or partial shade in moist soil and works well with other spring bulbs, provided they are planted near the front of the border. They will multiply and naturalize if their growing conditions are ideal. F. Meleagris alba is pure white with a subtle checkered pattern.

Camassia
Camassia, native to western North America, with one species native to the East, is commonly known as wild hyacinth, Indian hyacinth, camas and quamash. The genus name comes from the American Indian name kamas or quamash as the bulbs were an important food source for Native Americans and settlers. It is still sought after today as a food source. All camas have tall flower spikes composed of dozens of starlike florets in vibrant shades of white, cream, blue or purple with noticeable yellow anthers that open from the bottom to the top. Plants range in height from 2 to 4 feet. They prefer moist, fertile soil and open growing conditions such as meadows or room to spread and naturalize in the garden. They will tolerate clay soils and are happy planted near ponds or in rain gardens. Once past the growing season, they will tolerate drier conditions. They will grow in full sun or dappled shade and are considered “trouble free.” An underutilized spring bulb that blooms after the daffodils, it lends rich hues of blue to the garden.

Camassia leichtlinii, commonly known as large camas or Leichtlin’s camass, grows 3 to 4 feet tall, in full sun or partial shade. In its native northwest habitat, it grows on moist mountain slopes and meadows from British Columbia to southern California. There are several cultivars available for the home garden. All will naturalize if left undisturbed, forming showy clumps. ‘Alba’ has racemes of creamy white star-shaped flowers. ‘Caerulea’ has pale to deep lavender-blue flowers, and ‘Pink Stars’ has pale pink florets on its upright stems.

Camassia cusickii, commonly known as Cusick’s camass, is native to northeast Oregon and western Idaho, and is cultivated widely for home gardens. From its rosette of grassy leaves, the flowering stalk grows to 2 1/2 feet and bears sky blue to white flowers with prominent yellow anthers.

Camassia scilloides, commonly known as wild hyacinth or Eastern (Atlantic) camas, is native to central and eastern United States. Reputed to be rare in Virginia, a search of the Internet showed several plant nurseries that offer it for sale. Native to a variety of habitats, it has fragrant pale blue flowers and grows from 1 to 2 feet tall. The epithet scilloides refers to its similarity to the genus Scilla.

With the spring and summer growing seasons soon to be here, keep one or more of these unusual but stunning plants in mind to order in the coming fall. They will certainly add flair and elegance to your spring garden. There are numerous bulb catalogs that offer these more unusual plants.

Resources
• Essential Perennials: The Complete Reference to 2700 Perennials for the Home Garden, by
Ruth Rogers Clausen and Thomas Christophe
• Foxtail Lily, Chicago Botanic Garden
• Eremurus, Royal Horticultural Society Gardening
• Consider Fritillaries This Fall, Dr. Leonard Perry, University of Vermont
• Fritillaria meleagris, Missouri Botanical Garden
• Fritillaria persica, Missouri Botanical Garden
• Guinea Hen Flower, Fritillaria meleagris, University of Wisconsin Extension
• Camassias, Cathy Caldwell, Piedmont Master Gardeners
• Camassia leichtlinii, Missouri Botanical Garden
• Camassia scilloides, Missouri Botanical Garden

Ferns: Not To Be Ignored

By George Graine, Fairfax Master Gardener

“The bright colours of flowers are admired by the least intellectual but the beauty of form and texture requires a higher degree of mental perception, and a more cultivated intellect for its proper appreciation. Hence we regard the growing taste for the cultivation of ferns as proof of mental advancement.” From a fern catalogue issued in 1858 by fern nurseryman Abraham Stansfield; encomium by John Palmer

Hopefully, reading this quote does not offend you especially when you consider that it was written 163 years ago. Of course, we know that ferns are not big flowering show stoppers that take your breath away. For example, hibiscus, peony, roses and hydrangea all fit into that category. If you think ferns are plants that only belong in yesteryear gardens, please read on. A new book, “The Complete Book of Ferns” by Mobee Weinstein (Cool Springs Press, 2020), should help change such a mindset. Just because some people often consider ferns to be unassuming does not mean they should be relegated to some far away and barely seen dark corner of your landscape.

For sure, ferns are not show-off plants. The simplicity of ferns is their most attractive attribute. How can ferns compete with magnificent floral displays? The answer is because ferns have many uses in the garden. To be clear, fern varieties provide gardeners with different sizes, shapes and colors beyond shades of green. Some are evergreen and others deciduous. Once you realize that ferns have many uses, your concerns about having boring and/or simple plants should no longer be an issue. Heretofore, you may have had an unrealized appreciation of ferns, and you may have only paused briefly at garden center fern tables. Then, perhaps a thought occurred to you that adapting ferns into your landscape could be a game changer. Surely, with the introduction of these plants you will create a new and different planting scheme.

Recently, ferns are undergoing what some may call a modern renaissance. Indeed the variety of ferns will surely surprise you with their diversity. Although ferns have been around for hundreds of millions of years, you will realize they are complex plants. Just as newly introduced plants are marketed by growers each year (think plant du jour) so too there are new ferns being propagated and brought to the retail trade. The difference between a new variety and a similar plant is not often discernable. You might take this up with a pteridologist, a fern specialist.

Chapter 2 on The Botany of Ferns includes an easy to understand explanation about these plants. If you are interested in propagating ferns through using their spores (not seeds), this is not a difficult procedure. It can be a fun experience and the DIY step-by-step pages in the book provide ample explanation leading to your success.

Many ferns are grown as houseplants (Chapter 3). In fact, these types of ferns are expanding in numbers much like those grown for outdoor use. All of the usual important requirements including plant growth culture (light, temperature, growing medium, watering, humidity and fertilization) and more are noted in easy to follow directions. Color photos are helpful when considering a fern for just the right location in your home. A valuable chart indicating common symptoms, causes and solutions is important if or when a problem arises. The second half of the houseplant chapter includes 35 plants, each with a discussion and color photo. No doubt some of these plants are familiar to you such as Maidenhair (there is an outdoor type too), Button and Staghorn ferns just to name a few. Is it time to try something different?

Outdoor ferns in Chapter 4 has a similar editorial approach to the chapter on indoor ferns. This will help you to understand how these different plants will grow and thrive. Of course, the key difference from the indoor varieties is the seasonal requirement for outdoor care. Included in this chapter is an important short troubleshooting guide regarding plant pests and diseases. Why so short? Because thankfully, ferns grown outdoors are relatively trouble-free. Can you say that about other plants in your landscape? Again the author provides information on 35 plants (yes, the same number as indoor plants). Some may be familiar to you such as Japanese Painted, Autumn and Christmas ferns.

After reading about indoor and outdoor ferns, there is something else you should consider. For a different look, the last chapter explains Do-It-Yourself Crafting with Ferns and how they could become a new and different reality for you. In other words, how to turn ferns into art objects. This is a fun chapter because it allows you to take on a different dimension regarding ferns. You will also learn about creative planning projects and be inspired by the many ways that will enhance how your ferns appear in the garden. Some of the ideas, all presented in detail, include step-by-step instructions with excellent color photos for each step in the process. Several examples include terrarium variations, the new trend in vertical gardens, dish gardens and tabletop gardens. These ideas should help get your creative juices flowing.

Have you heard about Kokedama? If so, then you know this is a centuries old Japanese art form that is related to bonsai. The English translation means “moss ball.” All you need to know about crafting a display for a tabletop or hanging Kokedama is clearly spelled out in words and photos. Also in the crafting chapter are three other projects, all with extensive help. You will learn how to create fern prints, make pressed fern art and cyanotypes. The last project is an old photographic technique from 1842. It is photochemical blueprinting where the process is based on a chemical’s sensitivity to ultraviolet light. Today this process is called Sunprints. If this sounds really technical do not fret because there are a variety of kits available where supplies are sold at craft stores. You can work with pre-treated paper or fabric in assorted colors. This is an easy, exciting and fun project the entire family can enjoy.

So now you know why ferns should not be ignored, whether outdoors in your garden or indoors in your house. Happy “ferning” everybody.

Silverfish Seek Water But Do Not Swim

By Ray Novitske, Fairfax Master Gardener
Silverfish (Lepisma saccharina) are one of those insects with a cute exotic name. They get their name because of their silver color with a body covered in tiny glistening scales like fish. They are wingless and typically 1/3 inch in length and have two long antennae. They prefer concealed spaces and are nocturnal, coming out in the daylight only when disturbed.

Silverfish like to hang out in cool, damp, dark places throughout the year, and are especially fond of basements, sinks, and bathrooms. They can also be found outdoors under rocks, leaf litter and damp caves, and around their favorite food sources. They love to eat materials high in starches such as glue, cellulose and paper found in wallpaper and book bindings. They are not dangerous to humans, and are only considered a pest. This is especially true in libraries and museums where paper and books are stored.

Silverfish lay eggs in groups of seven to twelve, and hatch as immature insects resembling miniature versions of the adults. Eggs hatch in about 20 days, but if temperatures are unfavorable, they may take up to 40 days. The insects molt several times until reaching adulthood, taking about one year, with their lifespan up to eight years.

These tough insects can go for long periods of time without food — up to an entire year. They have been known to cannibalize dead and injured insects when necessary. Although preferring damp areas, they can also survive long periods without water.

There are many ways to control silverfish — many of them without pesticides. The best way is to prevent them in the first place. Practice sanitary conditions such as eliminating stacks of old newspapers, magazines, books and fabrics. Reduce dampness by using dehumidifiers and removing standing water. Eliminate harborage and hiding places such as seams in interior walls and spaces between ceilings and walls. Seal up cracks and holes in areas where silverfish are found.

To eliminate them once they are found indoors, diatomaceous earth and silica dust work best. These dry materials injure the insects and cause them to lose moisture. Apply them as a dust in cracks and crevices or place them in walls and voids. Note that they are only effective if they remain dry.

Silverfish are only considered a nuisance insect. They are not directly harmful to us, but can be to our items in storage — items we value.

References
•	Featured Creatures, University of Florida
•	Silverfish: They are Silver, but They’re Not Fish, Laura Jesse, Iowa State University Extension & Outreach
•	Silverfish & Firebrats, Clemson Cooperative Extension
•	Silverfish, University of Minnesota Extension
•	Bristletails (Silverfish and Firebrats), Penn State Extension

… updated 2023

My Zucchini Story

By Linda Puff, Fairfax Master Gardener
While reading Ray Novitske’s informative article on the zucchini in the July Fairfax Gardening, a smile and a chuckle came to me. It brought back memories of the first vegetable garden we planted after moving into our new home 33 years ago. We planted trees, shrubs and constructed a large rectangular-shaped bed where I planted perennials and annuals. My husband suggested planting a vegetable garden. I suggested constructing an adjoining bed where we would try our hand at vegetables. The second large rectangular bed was built, then filled with soil, compost and manure. There was no soil test taken. Remember, please, that this was about 30 years ago and before my master gardening days.

During the winter months, we thought about what vegetables we wanted to plant. We decided on tomatoes, of course, green peppers, cucumbers and zucchini. Spring arrived, the ground warmed up, vegetable transplants were in the nursery, so it was time to shop. We purchased four tomato plants, two green pepper and two cucumber plants, and four zucchini plants. I wanted to stuff zucchini, bake a chocolate zucchini cake, and bake zucchini bread. Also purchased were cages, wire and stakes.

Then it was time to plant. The vegetables were placed in the garden, holes were dug and the veggies were planted. Cages were installed and secured with stakes. Watering was done. We were so proud with how it looked. The plants began to grow. One morning I went out and was met with pepper plants that had been nibbled on by a critter. That is where the wire we purchased came in handy. I wove it through the pepper cages. The next morning, I observed a very cute little bunny walking around the cages trying to get to the pepper plants. He was out of luck. Time passed and we began to see blossoms and then small vegetables appeared. Birds and small critters kept a close eye on the garden, and when the time was right, they were there to try the tomatoes.

We were quite pleased with our harvest from our first garden. I was able to stuff some peppers, and we picked a few small cucumbers. The tomatoes did very well. We had planted three large tomatoes and one cherry tomato. We had enough to share with family and neighbors. I so enjoyed going out to pick and grab a cherry tomato and pop it right in my mouth. Delicious!

Now to the zucchini, four plants. I read one time that the zucchini is God’s sense of humor plant. It either grows in abundance or not at all. If you were to plant one seedling, it will die, but if you plant many seedlings all with flourish. All four of my plants flourished. I stuffed zucchini, made the chocolate cake and made lots of zucchini bread. I shared with family, neighbors and coworkers. It is easy to give away the first tender “zuke” from your garden. Early on, they make great gifts, but late in the season if you arrive at your neighbor’s door or at your coworker’s desk with something in your hand, you are not welcomed.

Also, if you read Ray’s article, you will remember he mentioned the oversized zucchini. When you went out to pick, you had to check under every leaf because there could be one hiding. If you missed it and did not go out for a day or two you would find a zucchini the size of a small baseball bat.

At the end of the gardening season, several of my coworkers who were recipients of zucchini or zucchini bread wrote a poem for me. I would like to share it with you. (The poem is in the most appropriate notecard pictured.)

Linda planted a little white seed,
It sprouted much like a green weed,
It grew with such fervor,
Now there’s zucchini all over,
Much more than she’ll ever need.

The harvest is a daily chore.
No leisure time anymore.
It’s out to the plot.
My God! What a lot!
Enough for the entire 12th floor.

The zucchini are hostile and mean
They’ve overtaken both rows of beans.
Their leaves she’s cut back.
Still they continue the attack
And now they threaten her being!

Well, what do you do with all those green critters?
Dice, slice, rice ‘em? How about fritters?
Wok ‘em, whip ‘em, mash ‘em, smash ‘em
Grilled or chilled, you can’t beat ‘em.
Chocolate covered zucchini in a pile;
Oh, they’re so very versatile.

Come home from work. Sit back. Relax.
Oh no…. THESE are the cruel, cold, hard facts:
It’s out to the zucchini patch.
Another half-a-million are ready to hatch!
You can’t keep up. So many still teeny-weeny.
Don’t bother to try. Here. Have a Zucchini Martini.

By Mary Lou Kegelman and Jim Word

In Our Backyard

A Visit to Hillwood

By Linda Puff, Fairfax Master Gardener
In 1955, Abremont, 25 acres adjacent to Rock Creek Park in Northwest Washington, D.C. was purchased by Marjorie Merriweather Post, heiress to the Postum Cereal Company upon the death of her father, C.W. Post. She purchased other food industries such as Bird’s Eye, Jello-O, Hellmann’s and called the conglomerate General Foods. Almost immediately after her purchase, she hired architects to refurbish the 1920’s neo-Georgian style house into a statelier dwelling with the most modern conveniences.

Working with landscape designers, Ms. Post envisioned gardens offering something to see in every season. With all the changes being made to the house and gardens, it is not a surprise that the estate’s name was changed to Hillwood, after a property she had owned on Long Island. By the time the renovations were complete, Ms. Post had decided that her last home would become a museum that would inspire and educate the public.

The remodeled house is a stately dwelling that functions as a well-staffed home and a place where Marjorie Merriweather Post’s 18th century French decorative art collection, Russian imperial art and religious objects are showcased. The house also has an efficient and high tech kitchen and pantry, along with many personal touches that make Hillwood one of Washington’s most memorable homes.

The Four Season Gardens

Summer
There are footpaths and woodland trails with hostas and ferns and a stream tumbling down the hill of the Japanese-style garden. Dahlias, larkspurs, salvias, cockscombs and roses are some of the flowers in the cutting garden. Thousands of vibrant annuals flow all around the property, tumbling down garden walls, surrounding sculptures and against the greenhouses. Tropical plants that wintered under glass are brought outdoors.

Fall
Twelve acres of woodlands filled with oak, red maple, beech, sycamore, cherry, dogwood, hickory, poplar and other deciduous trees that change from green to yellow, red, bronze and bright orange surround the manicured acres. Japanese maples stand out in the Japanese-style garden that is filled with a wide variety of Asian sculptures and lanterns. The ginkgo, one of the oldest trees on the property, never disappoints. In the early fall, the horticulture staff and volunteers change out summer annuals to chrysanthemums that will dominate in the formal gardens. Two thousand mums are planted throughout the estate. Staff and volunteers raise 17 types of mums to be used in the garden and in arrangements.

Winter
Most plants are dormant in the winter. It becomes a time when the many sculptures throughout the estate and the stone terraces are more evident. Deciduous trees show off their shape, berries attract birds and evergreens welcome furry winter visitors. The greenhouses, which were replaced with a modern structure in 1996, are filled with thousands of orchids and other unusual plants from South America, Puerto Rico and other tropical areas. In January, winter jasmine’s yellow flowers push through the snow. By the end of March, snowdrops and other early small bulbs begin to break through the cold ground.

Spring
Staff and volunteers plant thousands of bulbs in the fall. In spring, tulips appear in the cutting and rose gardens. Small irises peak through the sedum groundcover along the Friendship Walk. Asian sculptures are tucked away in the Japanese-style garden where azaleas, Japanese maples, pines and spruce with contrasting leaf textures are around every bend. Azaleas are the shrubs most synonymous with Hillwood and appear throughout the gardens flowing along the paths. The 9-hole putting green is framed with blooming snowball viburnum. Lavender blooms in the spring cutting garden. Bright yellow forsythias cover the hillside, and daffodils shine at the lower and upper gates to the estate. Different colors of floribunda roses peak in May and fill the Rose Garden. Camellias fill the woods along the paths and roadsides, and the perennials in the cutting garden explode with color.

In 1956, the Friendship Walk, a path from the Rose Garden to a crest overlooking Rock Creek Park, was designed as a tribute to Marjorie Merriweather Post from her friends on her 70th birthday. Significant moments in her life are displayed on plaques placed throughout the Walk. One designed by Mamie Eisenhower is the fourth stanza of the poem, “The Lord God Planted a Garden” by Dorothy Frances Gurney:

The kiss of the sun for pardon
The song of the birds for mirth —
One is nearer God’s heart in a garden
Than anywhere else on earth.

Marjorie Merriweather Post died on September 12, 1973, and her ashes are buried in the foot of an obelisk erected at the center of the Rose Garden. Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens opened as a public institution in 1977, and today is maintained by the Post Foundation.

Make a day of it if you decide to visit Hillwood. Tour the house, stroll the gardens and stop by the Cafe Merriweather for lunch or a latte.

Hillwood reopened to the public in July. Reservations should be made as capacity is limited to help with social distancing.

References
• A Garden for All Seasons, Marjorie Merriweather Post’s Hillwood, Kate Markert, 2020
• Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens, Washington, DC

Make Your Soil Work For Your Plants

By Tony Makara, Fairfax Master Gardener
As young kids, how many of us spent many a summer day playing in dirt? I can’t recollect the precise activities this entailed except that it was definitely “hands on” and probably involved digging with play tools or maybe using a Tonka Truck or two. All that play time didn’t make most of us soil scientists, but we sure had fun. As gardeners, whatever our level, we still play in dirt, but now it’s to grow great and productive plants, whether they be vegetables, ornamentals, shrubbery or even turfgrass.

The dirt in our backyards lays the foundation for nutritious and strong plants. Literally. We strive for soil that holds moisture, but drains well, is loose and has air for roots to establish themselves. It also has plenty of minerals essential for vigorous plant growth. A good gardener values the dirt as much as what is growing in it, since the healthier the soil, the better our plants will grow. Few of us begin our first garden with ideal soil, so we learn what measures to take and what practices to avoid. The more we understand what we need from our soil, the better we can remediate problems such as heavy clay, or plant-choking compaction.

Clay soil is sometimes thought of as the bane of gardening efforts. It consists of tiny particles so close that they do not allow for air and water circulation needed by the plant’s roots. We all know its characteristics. When dry, it is super-hard, and when wet, it is very sticky and adheres to our shoes. Here are some other facts: Clay’s soil particle shape is flat, or plate-like, which is why the particles are good at stacking on top of one other and creating a very “tight” soil. Clay is very good at preventing water from infiltrating into the soil, which leads to runoff and erosion problems. it is also very good at holding water. Clayey soils will stay wet longer than other soil types.

Although clay soil is dense and difficult to dig or till, we can convert it into ideal garden soil by working 2 to 3 inches of organic matter into at least the top 6 to 7 inches. This can be rototilled, forked or dug into the soil. This should be done either in the fall, after harvesting, or in the spring before planting. Adding organic matter helps separate the clay particles, making heavy soils crumbly, with the benefit of improving water and soil retention. Ideal organic matter includes compost, or a natural mulch comprised of decomposed leaves, grass, small twigs or even rotted manures. Such additive products are available from full-service garden centers or we can make our own. As the clay soil structure is loosened, the roots of a healthy growing plant benefit from the air in the soil, and this in turn provides the plant the oxygen it needs for its cellular growth. Should we mix sand alone into clay soil to loosen it up? Not unless we want concrete-hard soil. Adding and digging in compost over time won’t eliminate clay, but it will be broken up to enable the roots to work as they are meant.

Heavy clay and soil compaction sometimes go hand in glove, but even an ideal soil composition can suffer from compaction, which results from repeated pressure on the soil. The problem starts when the soil particles in the top few inches are compressed from traffic and overuse, once more resulting in a condition that impedes the flow of air, nutrients and water to the roots. As with clay soils, compacted soil has a reduced rate of both water infiltration and drainage, because it lacks the porous characteristics to move water downward more effectively through the soil. And as with heavy clay soil, compacted soil also means roots must exert greater force to penetrate the compacted layer. In a garden, the best way to minimize compaction is to avoid walking on the soil. For vegetable gardens, raised beds and right-sized containers are ideal. But what about lawns? Compaction occurs simply by our season-long foot pressure when mowing. Lawn compaction can be addressed by core aeration, which opens small holes in the soil to loosen it up. A hollow tine core aerator pulls little plugs from the soil, allowing for the roots to expand and take advantage of the loosened soil. Avoid solid-tine or spiking devices that may actually further compact the soil. When core-aerating, that’s the time to apply about a quarter to a half inch of the organic matter, such as the compost matter used in the garden, as a top dressing. As in the vegetable garden, this increases organic content and likewise improves infiltration and water percolation. It will also help decompose any thatch buildup.

Fixing soil compaction and clay content address the soil structure, but along with that it is always recommended that garden soil be tested to learn the soil’s pH. For the gardener, having the right pH enables the plant to absorb nutrients from the soil. The pH tells us the measure of the soil’s acidity or alkalinity. (The term pH stands for Potential / Power of Hydrogen, focused on concentrations of positive hydrogen ions (H+) as opposed to negative hydroxide ions (OH-).

The pH scale runs from 1.0 to 14.0, with 7.0 being neutral. Readings below 7.0 indicate the degree of soil acidity based on the number of hydrogen ions, while above 7.0 indicates alkalinity. A notable point about pH is that the scale is logarithmic in multiples of 10. A soil with a pH reading of 6.0 is 10 times as acidic than 7.0, and a soil with a pH of 5.0 is 100 times more acidic than 7.0. And, a reading of 4.0 is 1,000 times more acidic. (Yes, there are some readings pretty close to that.)

The abbreviated pH chart shows the various nutrients in the soil such as phosphorus, potassium, calcium, manganese and iron. The same amount of the nutrient is in the soil regardless of the width of the band on the chart, but where the bands are thick, the element in that band is water soluble. This means that it can be taken up by the plant through its roots. Where the bands are narrow, the elements are in a non-soluble status that blocks their uptake by the plant’s roots. Many of our plants do quite well when the soil pH ranges from 5.5 to 6.8, or slightly/moderately acid. But it is always best to know the pH that is ideal for the plant that is to be grown, so the pH can be properly adjusted. It’s also a best practice to group plants with the right pH needs. For instance, blueberries or azaleas thrive at a much lower pH than other, less acid-tolerable plants. And, it is not uncommon for the soil pH to differ significantly between a front yard and a back yard of a single residence. Oftentimes, this is the result of landfill displacement during home construction.

There are several ways to go about getting soil tested. There are commercial kits that can be used for this purpose, or basic soil meters that provide an instant indication. Most full-service garden centers carry such products. Some private companies will also do this for a fee. Another option is to have it tested at the Virginia Tech Soil Lab, as part of the Virginia Cooperative Extension. Ready sources for free soil sample mailing kits are the Fairfax County Public Libraries and from the Virginia Cooperative Extension. Although libraries and county offices are still closed as of this writing, these same kits are available at several prominent full-service commercial garden centers throughout Fairfax County. A single soil test from Virginia Tech costs $10, plus postage.

Most of our residential soils in Fairfax County trend toward being slightly acidic, but there will be many instances where the soil shows as too acidic for what we want to grow. Soil acidity is corrected through the application of lime. The soil test results from Virginia Tech will indicate how much lime should be applied, if needed, as measured in pounds/1,000 square feet. So, no matter where the pH reading is indicated, the key value of a soil test result is that it will tell the precise amount of lime needed for correction.

So, as we more and more come to appreciate the role our soil plays in successful gardening, “playing in dirt” becomes much more meaningful and leads to rewarding garden successes. After all, think of just a few of the rewards that healthy soil brings: less erosion, better water filtration, oxygen, enhanced microbial activity, mineral availability — all supporting thriving root growth that produces enhanced nutritional uptake for the plant. While we enjoy the bounty and beauty of our gardens, let’s give due credit for the great job that a well-tuned, healthy soil does throughout the gardening life cycle.

References
• Should You Aerate Your Lawn?, Tom Kalb, North Dakota State University
• Low Maintenance Lawn Care, Home Grounds Fact Sheet, Cornell University Cooperative Extension,
   Nassau County
• Home Lawn Maintenance, ANR 239, Alabama Cooperative Extension System, Alabama A&M and
   Auburn Universities
• What To Do About Compacted Soil, Gretchen Voyle and Hal Hudson, Michigan State University
   Extension
• Soil Health, Dana Mulligan, VCE Horticulture Intern, Fairfax Gardening
• Phenomenal pH Phacts, Ray Novitske, Fairfax Gardening
• Make Soil Microbes Your Friend, Marsha Goldberg, Fairfax Gardening
• Understanding Your Virginia Soil Test Report, Gil Medeiros, Fairfax Gardening