Bad Bamboo

by Ray Novitske, Fairfax Master Gardener
Beginning on January 1, 2023, it will be illegal for your Running Bamboo to spread from one property onto a neighbor’s property or public right of way. The responsibility to contain it will fall on the property owner where the bamboo is growing. The law will be enforced by the county’s Department of Code Compliance, and fines will range from $50 to $2000.

Not all bamboo is the same. There are two types: clumping and running. The clumping bamboo is not invasive and is relatively easy to control. It is the running bamboo causing the problems because of its invasive nature. For information on acceptable ornamental clumping bamboo, see our story references at the end of this page.

There are several species of running bamboo that are considered invasive in the U.S. An invasive here is defined as a plant that spreads quickly because of its vigorous growth, outcompeting native vegetation and that harms the natural ecological balance of native animal and plant species.

Bamboo Botany Lesson

Bamboo is classified as a grass, albeit with woody characteristics. The upright culms (stalks or canes) can grow from 20 to 50 feet (6 to 15 m) in height. In the spring growing season between March and May, they can shoot up several inches in one day, as it is the fastest growing plant in the world. Culms reach their mature height in their first year of growth. The leaves grow out year to year as some are lost and are replaced, and some species lose their leaves entirely every winter. But it is the root system that causes so many problems.

Bamboo culm

The root system of rhizomes can grow up to 15 feet (5 m) horizontally in one year. Each rhizome can sprout several culms upward to grow with leaves to produce food for the next year’s growth. The oldest, strongest rhizomes will produce the strongest, thickest culms. But each spring, the newest culms grow thicker and taller than previous years.

Control the Beast

A bamboo clump is difficult to control, but methods include trying to contain its growth and spreading through use of barriers and trying to eradicate it. Control of mature stands of bamboo is extremely difficult. The concept is to provide a physical barrier that prevents the rhizomes and roots from spreading past a certain point: essentially a wall below grade.

Three-foot long (1 m) solid barriers below ground are sunk vertically as a wall past which no rhizomes can grow. Obviously, this material needs to be strong, solid, and without any open seams. Researchers suggest thick polypropylene or polyethylene as appropriate materials. Porous materials such as wood, plastics, concrete or steel are not reliable barriers. The work to install these barriers can be extensive, and they are not foolproof. Roots have been known to grow under or over them after installation.

An open air 3-foot deep (1 m) trench is also suggested as a barrier. This however can create a physical tripping hazard, be unsightly and be time-consuming to upkeep due to its tendency to fill in from erosion. Any rhizomes and roots growing through the trench must be immediately trimmed, so this control method requires constant observation and maintenance.

Running bamboo rhizome

Sometimes, running bamboo spread can be slowed or stopped by physically preventing the culms from growing as they emerge from the ground in spring and summer. This deprives the plant of producing new leaves to manufacture and store food for more growth. Energy stores in the roots and rhizomes are used to sprout new culms, so preventing photosynthesis in new leaves forces the plant to eventually weaken and die.

Constant vigilance is needed for this method to succeed. And as long as a neighbor leaves bamboo growing, there will always be new culms sprouting up from rhizomes 15 feet away (5 m). Cut them off as they emerge or kick them over. This will prevent the culms from growing and slow the bamboo down but will not stop the rhizomes from spreading underground.

Excavation and removal of the rhizomes and root system is another way to physically eradicate bamboo. This usually cannot be done by hand and requires a professional landscape company to utilize power equipment for excavation to lift the rhizomes out of the soil after culms are cut and removed. Problems such as damage to other landscape plants, soil compaction and necessary regrading might need addressing after such an operation. Any rhizomes remaining will regrow.

Lastly, there are chemical herbicides that might be used, but again are not always effective. The bamboo must be first cut down as much as possible. Within 5 minutes, a systemic chemical herbicide needs to be applied in sufficient concentrations to do the job. These are generally stronger versions of those used normally by us home gardeners. As with most chemicals, there is a potential to harm adjacent plants through drift and spray, and to damage wetlands and water through runoff from the application. The higher concentrations of the chemicals needed to be effective on bamboo requires more caution. The herbicides are most effective when applied from mid-September to mid-October with repeated application in 14 days.

Afterwards, consider alternatives to replace any running bamboo removed. Clumping bamboo, ornamental grasses and native grasses all make appropriate substitutes and help restore the balance in our ecosystem of animals, birds, insects and plants.

References
• Containing and Removing Bamboo, University of Maryland Extension
• Pest Management Guide, Weed Management in Home Ornamental Beds, Virginia Cooperative
   Extension
• Running Bamboo, Fairfax County VA publication
• Running Bamboo, Fairfax County Virginia
• Graminoids: Grasses and Grass-Like Species (Order Poales), Mid-Atlantic Invaders Tool
• Have No Fear Bamboo, George Graine, Fairfax Master Gardeners
• Installing a Bamboo Barrier, University of Maryland Extension, YouTube

Mary’s Gold

By Ray Novitske, Fairfax Master Gardener

French marigolds

The marigold got its name as a shortened version of “Mary’s gold,” named after the Virgin Mary in European medieval times. Marigolds are native to the subtropical Americas, having been cultivated in Mexico for over 2000 years. In the 1500s, explorers took marigold seeds from the Aztecs and brought them back to Spain where they were grown in monastery gardens. Once in Spain, seeds were spread further through trade to Europe, and to Africa where they became naturalized. Today, we have French and African marigolds as different species.

The Aztecs and Mayan cultures revered the flower and often used it to honor the gods and spirits. For the Mexico’s Day of the Dead, orange marigolds play an important part in the holiday celebrations. It is believed that spirits are attracted to the marigold’s spicy scent and the color, so they are often placed on alters and around gravesites to help guide spirits along their paths.

African marigolds

The two species grown in our gardens are the French marigold, Tagetes patula, and the African marigold, Tagetes erecta. French marigolds are compact, flower profusely, and are appropriate for window boxes, containers, and borders in mass plantings. Hybrid French marigolds come in single- or double-flowering cultivars, and can be yellow, orange, dark ruddy red color, or sport a combination. Some French varieties are open-pollinated, meaning their seed will produce plants true to the parents.

African marigolds are more solid yellow or orange, taller, bushier, and can have large blooms up to 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Because of their size and 3 to 4 foot tall (1 to 1.2 m) height, they often require support to keep them upright, especially in our summer storms with blustery winds.

A newer species is the signet marigold, Tagetes tenuifolia. These are smaller plants being only 6 inches tall (15 cm) with fuller bushy foliage forming mounded plants. The blooms are more often single, and are similar in color to the French marigolds.

Signet marigolds ‘Tangerine Gem’

Years ago, our country did not have an official flower. The marigold was thought to be a suitable candidate because of its native home in the Americas, but its yellow color was not desirable. A white cultivar was needed for the marigold to be seriously considered, so the call went out to find one. Burpee Seed Company researched and offered a prize to the home gardener who could help find seeds to be used to produce a white marigold. A home gardener in Iowa eventually came through, and as a result, today we have cream and creamy-white French and African marigolds. (The rose ended up being selected as the official U.S. flower.)

Marigolds are considered an annual here, and will bloom throughout the summer and into the late fall until frost. They germinate quickly from seed, making them an easy plant beginners and home gardeners to start themselves. The foliage is attractive, fern-like, and strongly scented, making it unattractive to deer. They prefer full sun and rich well-drained soil, but will grow in poor soils too. They do not need deadheading to continually bloom, but will benefit from it.

Although marigolds are easy to grow and reliably bloom all summer without disease or pests, there are some problems that can attack them. Despite their strong scent and its reputation for repelling pests, some insects are actually attracted to them. Spider mites are a persistent problem in hot weather, especially in dry conditions. Their sucking damage is seen as tiny whiteish dots resembling powder on the leaves. Slugs appreciate them as tasty treats, and aphids, leafminers, whiteflies, and thrips can cause destructive damage.

French marigold “Tiger Eyes’

Marigolds get the strong scent from a chemical they produce called alpha-terthienyl. This has been proven to repel certain types of plant parasitic nematodes by planting them alongside crops to be protected. Some gardeners and garden folklore encourage planting them in vegetable gardens to repel harmful pests. Research however, has shown that marigolds are not effective in reducing insect populations or insect damage on vegetable crops.

I grow the French marigold ‘Tiger Eyes’ as a bushy, low border plant and find that they reseed, coming back themselves year after year. They enjoy our hot summer sun, and are only bothered by spider mites when weather is dry for a prolonged period of time. If you are in need of some cheery yellows and oranges, marigolds can brighten up any garden area in the heat of summer.

References
Marigold, Clemson Cooperative Extension
The special role of marigolds on the Day of the Dead, WUSF Public Media
Marigolds (Tagetes), UIC Heritage Garden
Marigolds, University of Florida Extension
Marigolds, Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
Alice Vonk, Wikipedia

Put Some Snap in Your Garden with Snapdragons

By Carolyn R. Casey, Fairfax Master Gardener
Snapdragons with their beautiful, tall, colorful and unique flowers make a great addition to your garden. Their Latin name is Antirrhinum majus. ‘Anti’ in Greek means ‘like’ and ‘rhinos’ means ‘snout’ and refers to the snapdragon flower’s resemblance to a dragon’s nose. The flower can be opened and closed in a snapping motion. As a child, I remember playing with the snapdragon flowers and opening the blossoms as if they had hinged jaws. Snapdragons are native to Mediterranean, Europe, Syria and Turkey.

Mid height snapdragon

They are one of my favorite plants. Snapdragon flowers come in every color except blue. I like planting them in my containers and in the garden. They like the cool weather when the temperatures are 60 to 70 degrees F (15 to 21 C) and grow best in the early spring or fall. Snapdragons have lots of healthy and luxuriant growth in cool weather. They like full sun to part shade, rich, moist well-drained soil with organic matter and a pH of 6.2 to 7.0. Snapdragons need watering with 1 inch of water per week once they are established.

Pinching off the stem tips will make your young plants thick, bushy and healthy. Deadheading your snapdragons will help to prolong their bloom time. They do not do well in hot and dry weather. They look spent in the late summer and need to be cut back to promote regrowth. In summer, snapdragons will slow down their growth and stop blooming. However, if you keep them watered they can become refreshed and last until the fall. They count on bumblebees for pollination because smaller bees cannot open the flowers’ “jaws.” Snapdragons bloom from the bottom of the stem upward.

Snapdragons are considered perennials but are classified with annuals. They cannot survive the winter and must be started indoors from seed or planted as seed directly into the ground every year. Planting seeds may be done a few weeks before the last frost. They can also be purchased as seedlings. Occasionally, snapdragons will reseed themselves for the next year.

Tall snapdragons

Snapdragons may be propagated from stem cuttings. Cut a 2-inch (5 cm) piece of stem below a leaf node on a plant. Remove the lower leaves and dip the bottom of the cutting into rooting hormone. Plant the cutting in a small pot with seed starter mix or potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag to create a humid environment. Once the roots are developed, remove the bag and place the pot in a sunny window or under artificial light.

Snapdragon seeds can be started indoors by planting them in seed trays filled with moist seed starter soil mix. Set the seeds on top of the mix and press them to the surface but do not cover with soil. Water as needed with a mister creating a fine spray or put the tray into a container with a few inches of water for a half hour so the water is absorbed through the holes in the bottom of the tray. Then put the seed tray in a plastic bag to retain humidity and place it in an area with bright light. Check the soil frequently for moisture. The seeds will germinate in a week or two. After the seeds germinate take them out of the plastic bag so they do not rot or overheat. When they develop true leaves, transplant them into 3-inch (7 cm) pots or peat pots. Your snapdragon seedlings will need to be hardened off for 10 to 14 days before planting them outdoors. Since snapdragons can survive a light frost, they may be planted outside a couple weeks before your last frost date.

Snapdragons are classified on their flower form or height. There are three categories of height.
Dwarf plants grow 6 to 15 inches (15 to 38 cm) tall and are dense, bushy and produce an abundance of flower spikes. They work well as low border plants or in containers. Examples of the dwarf varieties of snapdragons are ‘Floral Carpet’ and ‘Floral Showers.’ Both of these grow 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) tall. These have the dragon jaw flowers. There is also a ‘Pixie’ mix that grows 7 to 9 inches (17 to 22 cm) tall and has a butterfly-looking flower. ‘Candy Tops’ grow 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) in solid colors of yellow, orange, white, red and rose. This mix may be used for edging and as bedding plants. ‘Tutti Frutti’ plants grow 10 to 12 inches (25 to 60 cm) tall and have rare speckled and striped flowers.

Mid-sized plants grow 15 to 30 inches (38 to 75 cm) tall and work well in borders and as cut flowers. Examples include the ‘Liberty’ series. These plants grow 18 to 22 inches (45 to 55 cm) tall and have dragon jaw flowers. The ‘Madame Butterfly’ mix grows 24 to 30 inches (60 to 75 cm) tall and has the double azalea flower form that is heavily ruffled. They come in all colors and are good to use for cut flowers. The ‘Princess’ series grows 16 to 18 inches (40 to 45 cm) tall and has the traditional dragon flower form.

Tall plants grow 30 to 48 inches (75 to 120 cm) tall and work well as plants in the back of your garden and also as cut flowers. The ‘Rocket’ series grows 30 to 36 inches (75 to 90 cm) tall with traditional flowers that are multi-colored and are great for cutting. Tall snapdragons may need to be staked up to keep them from falling over.

‘Chandelier’ snapdragons

The ‘Chandelier’ mix is a variety of trailing and draping snapdragons classified for their flower form with flowers that are lilac, pink and yellow. Their flowers are a little smaller than the other types.

Snapdragons may develop rust, mold, fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, wilt and root rot. Aphids and spider mites can also be a problem. If yellow flecks appear on your snapdragons that turn brown or black, then it has snapdragon rust. This occurs because your plants are planted too close together. You need to thin out your plants so that air can move around them. Do not water your snapdragons at night; this promotes the formation of mildew. Also, water snapdragons at their base and not overhead since this can also cause mildew.

Include snapdragons in your containers and gardens. With their tall spikes and beautiful eye- catching colors, they will make noticeable and standout additions to your gardens. Happy Gardening!

Resources
Now’s Time To Start Snapdragons From Seed, John Arbogast, Virginia Tech
Annuals: Culture and Maintenance, Diane Relf, Elizabeth Ball, Virginia Cooperative Extension
Snapdragons (snapdragons), Don Janssen, Nebraska Extension in Lancaster County
How to Grow and Care For Snapdragons, Marie Iannotti, the Spruce

Garden Holiday Gift Ideas 2021

By Ray Novitske, Fairfax Master Gardener
Serious gardeners already have many tools and equipment they need and want. This makes the gardener a difficult person to buy a gift for. We want to present our annual list of holiday gift ideas for the gardener who seems to have everything.

Farmers Sleeves
Gardeners get their arms scratched when pulling weeds, trimming shrubs and harvesting raspberries and strawberries. Protect those arms with farmers sleeves. These polyester-blend sleeves remove moisture and keep your arms smooth while providing protection from UV.
$ 18.39
> Sleeves at Farmers Defense

Garden Dibble Bulb Planter
Used to poke perfect holes in soil for planting seeds or bulbs, these old world tools are handmade from oak and finished in clear polyurethane. Markings indicate planting depth. Push into the soil and drop in a seed or bulb in the resulting hole.
$ 18.00
> Dibble at Zhills Artisans on Etsy

Old Man in the Tree
Put a face to your favorite tree. This decorative sculpture and others like it are placed on a tree to give it some character and whimsey. The metal is sculptured like bark but with facial features. Use for different occasions and holidays to entertain guests.
$ 15.99
> Sculpture at PureZoneA on Amazon

Sun Protection Shirt
This Safari shirt for both men and women is made from lightweight UV absorbing fabric that protects you from harmful ultraviolet sunlight to a 100+ SPF. The UV protection lasts with easy care. A mesh insert wicks away perspiration and promotes airflow.
$ 94.95
> Mens Shirt at Sun Protections
> Womens Shirt at Sun Protections

LED Light Flower Pot
This plastic plant container contains LED lights to allow it to glow during your night activities. Made of polyethylene, this looks like translucent white during daytime while it is charging the battery, and at night lights up for up to 10 hours.
$ 49.59
> Lighted Flower Pot at Borui Technologies on Amazon

Harvest Happy Hour
You can grow your cocktails in your garden with this collection of herbs. Lavender, basil, mint and lemon balm are some of the tasty treats you can use in your alcoholic concoctions.
$ 12.00
> Herb Seeds at Uncommon Goods

Bauhaus Bird Feeder
If your wildlife and backyard birds prefer modern design, look into this stylish stainless steel and porcelain bird feeder. Providing a roof over their heads as they feast in inclement weather, it also functions as a bird bathroom where birds can splash around in summer weather.
$ 289.00
> Bird Feeder at Birdhouse Chick

Attractive Seedheads in the Fall and Winter Garden

By Pat Dickey, Fairfax Master Gardener

Blackberry lily seedhead

Fall is often the time when gardeners spruce up their flowerbeds by adding new mulch and deadheading annuals and perennials. But, in doing this, they are forgetting about the birds and other wildlife that continue to live in their gardens during the fall and winter months. They need a food supply, nesting materials for their winter beds and hiding places to protect themselves from predators. Why not wait to remove healthy seedheads as well as old flower stalks and leaves in the spring, and continue to enjoy their beauty this fall and winter? You can also bring a few seedheads inside for your own enjoyment while you take a much-needed break from your gardening chores.

Many native flowers, especially those from the Aster family (Asteraceae), have seedheads remaining in the fall and winter that are favorites for many birds, such as goldfinches, nuthatches, sparrows, chickadees, juncos and jays. Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia) and especially coneflowers (Echinacea) have magnificent dark dome-like seedheads that remain strong throughout the winter. They are especially beautiful after snow falls and as ice encrusts them. Tickseed (Coreopsis) also provides its dried flowers and seeds for many birds through the summer and into the winter months. Ironweed (Vernonia spp.), a favorite of butterflies and hummingbirds, stands erect with tooth-shaped leaves and small purple flowers gathered in loose bunches. Fluffy seeds fall later in the season and expose starry faux flowers in winter. Birds use the fluffy seeds for their winter nests.

Echinacea

There are also plants that offer beautiful seedheads you can use indoors during the fall and winter. Sea Holly or Rattlesnake-master Eryngium yuccifolium, a native plant from the Apiaceae or Carrot family, has tiny stemless flower clusters resembling thistles with sword-shaped bristly-edged leaves similar to yucca. Bees and butterflies love it, and you can also bring a few of its flowerheads indoors to give an added dimension to your flower arrangements. The same goes for Globe Thistle Echinops ritro, a member of the Aster family, that also attracts bees and butterflies and has showy, spiny spherical blue-purple flowerheads that persist throughout the winter. Blackberry lily (Iris domestica and formerly Belamcanda chinensis) has unusual pear-shaped seed capsules that fade from green to tan. They eventually open to show shiny black seeds in clusters, resembling large blackberries. The seeds remain on their stalks for several months and are striking when against a backdrop of snow. They can also be used indoors for striking additions to your arrangements.

Baptisia

Native plants with attractive seeded flower spikes can remain in the winter garden for wildlife, as well as for our own enjoyment. False blue indigo, Baptisia australis, a native plant from the Fabaceae or legume family, has purple lupine-like flowers on spikes that give way to seed pods. The pods turn charcoal black when ripe and are full of rattling seeds. Prairie Blazing Star Liatris pycnostachya, a native perennial of the Aster family, has upright stalks and fluffy purple flowers that can also be a food source for winter birds if they remain standing. Culver’s root Veronicastrum virginicum, is a wildflower also from the Fabaceae family. It grows up to 6 feet tall (2 m) with several spikes of dense, tiny white flowers, and its growth habit looks like a candlelabra. It is winter hardy, and birds forage for its seeds on the ground late into the season. Birds also love eating the seeds of native ornamental millet Pennisetum glaucum. It can remain in the garden longer than most annuals with its spikes of seeds. ‘Purple Majesty’ with its purple seed spikes is the most favored variety and original cultivar. Stalks are 4 to 5 feet tall (1.2 – 1.5 m) and also have showy, purple foliage. They can be used in dried arrangements as well.

Many annual flowers can also remain in the garden for an extended time with their seedheads for wildlife to enjoy. Zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers (Helianthus), marigolds (Tagetes) and bachelor buttons (Centaurea) are among them.

Millet

The native oak-leaf hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia has a showy inflorescence of greenish flowers that turn white then purplish and persist until mid-winter, and birds love to eat their seeds. Native maple trees (Acer) have winged pods or samaras, and Eastern redbuds (Cercis) have seed pods that persist into the fall, both a welcome find for the hungry wildlife. Cones filled with seeds from pines and spruces are also favorites of finches, chickadees, woodpeckers and nuthatches.

When the time change occurs in early November, we will lose one more hour of daylight. Days are becoming shorter and shorter as well. Fall and winter are challenging times because birds and other wildlife have less time to forage for food. By waiting to clean up our gardens in the spring, we will help to keep the wildlife there healthy and happy.

Resources
• Gardening with Native Plants: Winter Gardens, Susan Carpenter, Arboretum, University of
   Wisconsin – Madison
• Should perennials be cut in the fall?, Emma Erler, University of New Hampshire Extension
• To Help Birds This Winter, Go Easy on the Yard Work, Andy McGlashen, National Audubon Society
• Plants for Feeding Birds, Marie Iannotti, The Spruce
• Winter Maintenance that Supports Pollinators and Birds, Bess Trout, Tyler Arboretum
• Birds that Eat Pine Cone Seeds, Sciencing
• Blackberry Lily, Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin – Madison Extension
• Ornamental Millet, Pennisetum glacum, Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin – Madison Extension

The Zoo Garden

By Linda Puff, Fairfax Master Gardener
We love gardening, although every idea we have does not always work out as planned. We find gardening relaxing, therapeutic, enjoyable, but most of all fun. I was reading an article on children’s gardens: veggie, train, gnome and fairy gardens and the fun learning experience for children and adults. The garden can be as simple as a few containers on your porch or an elaborate bed in the yard. Reading further a Zoo Garden was mentioned. Did you know there are thousands of plants with an animal as part of its common name? What a great way to teach children of all ages to be avid gardeners, allowing them to have their own garden patch. So grab the kids and grandkids, or neighbors and friends, and ask them to join in creating a Zoo Garden.

I thought about what I was reading and I have a round galvanized tub in my backyard with a miniature house, mailbox, wishing well, outhouse, bench, wheelbarrow and elves working in their garden. I don’t have space for a Zoo Garden, but I did take a walk through my yard and found that I have DOGwoods, a CRABapple, BUTTERFLY bushes, CARDINAL flowers, ELEPHANT’S ears, SPIDERwort, TIGER lily, BUTTERFLY weed and BEE balm. Now, all I have to do is create signage for my plants. More about that later.

Butterfly Bush

The best time to plant a Zoo Garden is in the spring or fall. So, there is time to gather the thoughts of all those working on the garden preparation and the plants and finishing touches they would like to see in the garden. The decision may be to redesign a current garden bed or prepare a new bed for the Zoo Garden. Browsing through seed and plant catalogs can help choose a theme for the garden and visiting a local nursery or a botanical garden can help in the plant selection. Once plants are chosen, making a design of the garden on paper and taking into consideration the height and width of the plants when fully grown will prove helpful. Including the child or children in the garden preparation is highly recommended. Bestowing the title of Zookeeper on the child or children lets them know how important their input is in the creation of the Zoo Garden.

Prepare the soil in the bed, take a soil sample and have it tested. Just like the zoo animals have proper homes and food, animal plants need to be well cared for and given a good place to live. CATtails prefer moist, soggy soil, a SPIDER lily prefers well-drained soil, OSTRICH ferns like a rich moist shady area and LAMB’s ears like to grow in the sun or a little shade in well-drained soil. Remember that not all of the zoo animal plants are suitable for all plant hardiness zones or growing conditions. Select plants according to what will grow in your location. If you pair a sun worshipping plant with a shade loving plant, nobody will be happy. Read plant labels and take them seriously.

Here are a few suggestions for animal plants in your Zoo Garden. SnapDRAGON, SPIDERwort, and LARKspur are annuals and like the sun. BEE Balm, CATmint, HENS and CHICKS and MONKEY Grass are perennials and like the sun. Solomon’s SEAL likes the shade and LEOPARD’s Bane likes part shade. Remember there are many animal plants (annuals, perennials, bulbs, grasses) to choose from.

The stories about how the animal plants got their names are also fun. It could be because part of the flower looks like the animal’s head or because of the color of the plant. The CARDINAL flower is named for the cardinal red color of its flower. The GOAT’s beard has lots of creamy-white flowers shaped like Christmas trees. The animal plant got its name because if you turn the flower clusters upside down, they look like the white, pointy beard of a mountain goat. TICKseed has small seeds that resemble ticks, thus the name. ZEBRA grass has horizontal gold stripes on the leaves, resembling the stripes on a zebra. The PIGGYback plant got its name because its new little leaves grow right on top of its big leaves. It looks like the little ones are riding piggyback. You can squeeze the sides of the snapDRAGON flower and it will open its mouth like a dragon roaring. I could go on and on.

Catmint

If there isn’t room for a garden bed, different sized containers can be used on the balcony or patio for a Zoo Garden. There are many houseplants that our Zookeeper can choose for an inside Zoo Garden. PANDA BEAR, ZEBRA, DONKEY’s tail, PIGGYback and SNAKE plants are just a few to consider.

Once your Zoo Garden is planted, it is time for a different type of creativity, choosing the name for your Zoo Garden and how to decorate. The zoo is decorated in many ways adding to its interest, and the same can be done to the Animal Plant Zoo Garden. It should be a fun place. Just like the zoo is fenced to keep its animals in, the Animal Plant Zoo Garden can be fenced to protect the animal plants using decorative fencing or cinderblocks/rocks. If a SPIDER plant is in the garden, a web can be placed nearby. A SNAKE plant can have a small rubber snake on the ground. CATmint can have a sign saying “CATS Welcome.” Recycled materials, pine cones, twigs, sea shells and miniature garden tools can be used to build or decorate. Different sized rocks or wood stakes can be used to make the signage, drawing the animals using paints, Sharpies, clip art and using Mod Podge (glue/sealer). For instance, take a wood stake and draw a BEE and print balm below, and one sign is made. Use the Mod Podge to seal it. Planters on your balcony or patio and houseplants can be decorated using small stakes, sea shells or wine bottle corks for signage. There are endless possibilities.

Spiderwort

Once the habitat is right for your animal plants, the Zookeeper can walk through the Zoo Garden every day and talk to the plants, check to see if they have enough water and make sure they are not too hot or too cold. Of course, you can pull weeds and fertilize every now and then. Knowing your plants well will provide important information for their care. The Zookeeper can offer a tour of the Zoo Garden to visitors, and a map of the garden can be made and handed out as a memento during the tour.

As mentioned a number of times in this article, the important thing is to have fun. The whole idea of gardening with children is to involve them, to teach, to learn, to spend time together and to make memories. Take pictures of your garden and make an album of your creation from planting day on.

Resources
• The Zoo Garden: Forty Animal-Named Plants Families Can Grow Together by Chris Hastings (1997)
• The Endless Possibilities of a Children’s Garden, Kyra Back, Proven Winners
• Plants with Animal Names: Tips for Creating A Zoo Flower Garden with Kids, Anne Baley, Gardening
   Know How

The Native Mexican Sunflower

By Ray Novitske, Fairfax Master Gardener

Tithonia rotundifolia

Tithonia, also known as a Mexican sunflower, sounds more like a city in Michigan or an eastern European country than a native Mexican sunflower. The plant was named for Tithonus, a man loved by Aurora, goddess of the dawn in Roman mythology. Of the two major species, Tithonia diversifolia and Tithonia rotundifolia, I am growing the later for the first time this summer. There are a handful of popular cultivars available such as ‘Fiesta del Sol,’ ‘Goldfinger,’ and ‘Torch.’

This member of the Aster family is a native of Mexico and Central America. It appealed to me because of its sizzling orange flowers and its large stately presence in a garden that can’t be missed. It is noted as a pollinator magnet, attracting hummingbirds because of its color, along with bees and butterflies for the pollen. While tending to my Tithonia, I swatted away a hummingbird from my head, initially thinking it was a bee. The bumblebees prefer my Echinops and Echinacea, but the small bees adore the Tithonia.

I planted these from seed indoors and transplanted them into my heat garden along the sunny south-facing side of a brick house. They are drought tolerant, prefer full sun and average soil and love hot weather. Rich soil tends to produce weak stems and lush foliage at the expense of the flowers. They are fast growers, and now stand at 5 feet (1.5 m) tall in my garden. I have them growing in average but well-drained soil. They started out slowly but are now blooming like gangbusters and branching out into more of a shrub form. There are no serious pests or harmful insects to note, and (although not a problem where I live) deer do not find them tasty.

Tithonia are annuals that begin blooming in July and continue through to the first frost. They form a well-branching shrub with good-sized, solid leaves that form a nice garden backdrop. Be sure to give them room. Several sources say that they benefit from staking, but I have not needed that yet.

Tithonia diversifolia

The species I have produces 3 inch (10 cm) blooms consisting of rich orange-red petals around a yellow central seed head. They are supposed to make good cut flowers, but on the plant they last about four days. Deadheading is a must to maintain a large number of blooms. The more you deadhead, the more branches form to produce more flowers.

The other species, Tithonia diversifolia, has the same cultural requirements, but its appearance is a bit different. Its leaves are more lobed and less solid, and its yellow flowers more closely resemble a traditional sunflower with separated petals. It is often called the tree marigold because of its foliage and its yellow blooms. Note that this one carries a “high invasion risk” in Florida and other publications highlighting invasive species.

References
Tithonia, Cornell University
Tihonia diversifolia, Invasive Species Compendium, Centre for Agriculture and Bioscience International
Mexican sunflower, Tithonia rotundifolia, University of Wisconsin Madison, Division of Extension
Tithonia diversifolia, University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences
Tithonia rotundifolia, Missouri Botanical Garden
Tithonia rotundifolia, North Carolina State University Extension

Add Colorful Coleus to Your Garden

By Carolyn R. Casey, Fairfax Master Gardener

Kong coleus

Do you enjoy having beautiful and colorful plants in your garden from spring to the first winter freeze? When you talk about adding beauty and color to your garden, most people think about adding colorful flowers. In the spring when you are looking for beautiful and colorful plants, take a minute to look at the colorful coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides). The genus name comes from the Greek words plectron meaning ‘spur’ and anthos meaning ‘flower’ in reference to the spur-shaped flowers of some members of the genus. Also the genus Scutellaria comes from the Latin word scutella meaning a small dish or saucer in reference to the shape of the persistent calyx after the flowers fade. Its common names are Coleus, Painted Nettle and Trailing Coleus. In recognition of this important plant, the National Public Garden Bureau declared 2015 the Year of the Coleus.

Coleus plants are purchased not because of their flowers but because of their beautiful and colorful foliage that ranges in colors from green, red, burgundy and pink. Coleus plants contain just about all the colors of the spectrum except a true blue. They can be grown in a variety of soils in full sun to part shade. The leaf colors are very intense and vivid, and they look almost like velvet. There are mosaic designs that are common where you see designs of various colors, sometimes along the leaf margins, or major veins or between veins. Some plants may have tiny spots or speckles on their foliage. Also the underside of coleus foliage, petioles and stems may add interest to cultivars by having complementary or contrasting colors to that of the leaves. The foliage of coleus plants comes in a variety of shapes: ovate, oblong and toothed. The stems can be semi-succulent and light green, causing them to stand out from the colorful foliage. In Zone 7, coleus plants are considered annuals or tender perennials when planted outside in your garden. They can also be planted in hanging baskets and containers.

Coleus flower spike

Coleus plants develop flower spikes with small blue or white flowers that are not showy. While the flowers do draw pollinators, they need to be pinched off since this takes the energy from the plant to start seed formation and leads to decline. Also pinching off the flower spikes will help the plant stay compact and bushy. The pinching of your plants will also reduce their height. Coleus plants are native to Southeast Asia and Malaysia. They are tropical evergreen tender perennials that have been prized for their foliage since Victorian times. Coleus plants have square angled stems and opposite leaves that help to identify them as being members of the mint family.

Coleus plants create a 3-foot tall mound as they grow and are erect growing plants requiring little care. They grow one-half to 3 feet tall with a one-half to 3-foot spread. Coleus plants originally needed to be planted in the shade, but today there are new varieties that can be planted in morning sun as long as they have afternoon shade. Some coleus plants like to grow in part shade or dappled light. Also coleus plants that are not tolerant of the sun will bleach and discolor in full sun.

Sun tolerant ‘Redhead’ coleus

There are also new sun tolerant varieties that thrive in full and hot sun. These varieties of coleus can be grown in full sun as long as they do not experience water stress. It is important to keep your coleus plants watered during the heat of summer because they may grow extremely big. An excess amount of sun will cause your coleus plants to become droopy, and too much shade will cause them to become tall and thin. Plants that have light colored foliage like chartreuse may sunburn when they are planted in too much sun while plants with darker colored foliage do better in sunnier places in your garden. Coleus plants enjoy the summer heat.

A coleus needs good drainage, and the soil should be kept moist and not be allowed to dry out. Water your coleus thoroughly when you plant it. During the first 7 to 10 days keep the root ball moist but not too wet. Every three to five days check the soil around your plant and water your plant when the entire top inch is dry. Using mulch around your plant will help to keep the soil moist. You want to water your plant at its base and not wet the foliage. Poorly drained soils and too much watering will cause your coleus to have wet feet leading to stunted growth, brown leaves and scorched leaf margins. When planting your coleus in containers, use a well-drained soil mix and check your plants often since they will be more susceptible to drought. Fertilize your coleus plants in June, July and August using an all-purpose soluble fertilizer that has a formulation like 24-8-16 or 17-4-17. Do not use a fertilizer that is formulated for flower production because the phosphorus will cause the plant to become leggy and to bloom. Did you know that the coleus plant is deer resistant? Some people like to bring their container grown coleus plants indoors before the frost. Check your plants carefully for insects prior to bringing them indoors. Also people may grow the coleus plant as a houseplant. When coleus plants are indoors they need vivid light.

‘Inky Fingers’ coleus

The coleus plant can also be started indoors from seed 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost date. Leave the seeds uncovered and planted in a sterile growing medium at 70 to 75 F. It will take 10 to 15 days to germinate and six to eight weeks before it can be transplanted outdoors into your garden or containers. It is important to pinch off the tips of the shoots before planting in your garden, and this needs to be done if the plant has only a single stem. Use your thumb and finger to pinch off the top one-half inch of the stem and also remove a couple of the top nodes. This will cause your plant to branch out and look fuller in your garden weeks later. Keep in mind that the term ‘plant spread’ refers to how big a plant will be when it is mature.

There are vegetative coleus plants that are sterile, They must be grown from cuttings and require less care than seed grown plants. These coleus plants can be propagated by putting them in potting soil or a glass of water. When you place your cuttings into potting soil it is important to keep them moist and the humidity high until new roots form. Cuttings of your outdoor coleus plants can be done and rooted before frost and grown indoors. Vegetative cultivars can be found in garden centers. These plants offer the greatest variety in foliage colors, leaf size and shape. They are usually found planted in larger pots while the plants in the cell packs have been started from seed.

Planting your coleus plants outdoors in properly prepared beds or containers makes them resistant to most diseases or insect problems. Some potential pests are mealy bugs, aphids and whiteflies. If the foliage happens to get wet while you water your plants or there is excessive moisture in the soil, these can cause your coleus plants to develop downy mildew, stem rot or root rot. Wear gloves when handling coleus plants since you may develop an allergic dermatitis that causes a red rash after repeated and frequent contact with the leaves of the plant. This skin irritation may be minor or last for a few minutes.

‘Pineapple’ coleus

Some of My Favorites
I really enjoy all of the beautiful, unique and colorful coleus plants. It is hard for me to choose one plant over another. I consider the coleus plants with all of their beautiful colors to be a form of eye candy. Here are a few of my favorite sun tolerant plants: ‘Burgundy Sun,’ ‘Chocolate Covered Cherry,’ ‘Pineapple,’ ‘Saturn,’ ‘Solar Sunrise,’ ‘Redhead’ and too many more to name.

Some of my favorite coleus plants that grow in part shade are ‘Black Magic,’ ‘Fishnet Stockings,’ ‘Freckles,’ ‘India Frills,’ ‘Japanese Giant,’ ‘Kong,’ ‘Mardi Gras’ and ‘Red Ruffles,’ to name a few. With such a large selection of colors, shapes and sizes, make your selection based on the area that you want to plant your coleus plants and their needs. When it comes to coleus plants the biggest problem is choosing which foliage colors and shapes you want to add to your garden. Happy gardening with your beautiful and colorful coleus plants!

Resources
• Plectranthus scutellarioides, Missouri Botanical Garden
• Coleus scutellarioides, North Carolina State University Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
• Coleus, Stephanie Ann Turner, Clemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center,
   Factsheet HGIC 1162
• Coleus, David Graper, South Dakota State University Extension